title
 
 
Materials

The polymer clay brands that I use are Fimo Classic, and Sculpey III. Fimo is my favourite, since it’s fairly hard, and takes a lot of handling without losing it’s shape. Faces, arms and legs need to keep their shape until it’s oven time.

Sculpey, on the other hand, is much softer. This comes in handy for larger shapes, such as bases and backdrops. Flattening out a large section for a wall, for instance, is so much easier with Sculpey.

Both products come in a various colours, and styles, and cost between $2.50 and $3.50 (Canadian). The styles include translucent (more like candle-wax translucent), pearl, metallic, luminescent and even glow-in-the-dark! You can mix Scupley and Fimo together, despite the differences in baking times and temperatures. (If you like, take an average, but I find there is a lot of latitude in the baking specifications.)

A necessary part of my process is internal reinforcement. For this, I use wooden skewer sticks, paper clips and sometimes a much stiffer wire that I get from taking apart a common hand mixer.

Acrylic paint is important for detail, colour texturing (as opposed to physical texturing), and other special effects. With this, of course, you need a selection of brushes, some of which must be very small - 00 and 01. A glass or cup of water is handy for washing brushes and watering down paint… but do NOT use the same style cup as your tea/coffee…

I have found a modeling medium called Black Lava Texture Gel, and this is great for adding outward texture. I use it for grass, and bark on trees, etc.

For the finishing touch, I apply a matte acrylic-based varnish. This keeps the paint protected, gives a finished, consistent look, and even helps hold things together. It still has a slight gloss, and if anyone out there knows of a matte varnish that actually IS matte, I would be grateful to hear about it!

A good, all purpose glue is needed to hold various elements together, sometimes even the hardened clay - I can’t think of a project where something hasn't broken during the process. (note - it usually is a clean break, and the fix can be invisible). What I use is crazy glue. Also, I will drip a smooth layer on tricky bits like figures, just to add strength… Be careful with this stuff, it may not dry as fast as you think!

Finally, there are any number of materials that can be used to enhance the look of your piece. For the figures displayed in my galleries, I have used paper, colour prints of photos, string, fishing line, plastic beads and clear plastic packaging material (from the flat area on the back of most bubble packs). I test the material in the oven, and most will stand up to 250 degrees F. If it doesn’t, I find a way to glue it in/on the final sculpture.

 

 
Tools & Equipment
 

I have tried special sculpting tools available from hobby stores, including rubber molds for faces and hands. These are all well and fine, but I usually end up using my own customized tools. Basically, I look for common household items that will help me achieve a desired result. As for as I’m concerned, there are NO rules about this - whatever works - works.

Here are a few of my more successful shaping implements:

Shoe polishing brush - great for rough textures, such as stone & brick.

A plastic roller. For flattening very light coloured material, you should use a layer of wax paper, since the roller tends to get covered with clay.

Tweezers are good for adding on tiny pieces during the finishing stages.

A pair of needle-nosed pliers for bending and cutting wire.

The utility blade. It’s used for making clean cuts, scraping and cutting the hardened clay, and you can even using the back of the blade for scoring lines into the soft clay.

Rounded wooden ends of worn-out paint brushes. Used for shaping, smoothing, poking, etc.

An ancient analog device, the compass … I guess this could be anything, but the point is good for detail work, and the shaft helps smooth/scrape soft Fimo onto the already hardened material.

My fingers. Yup - mother nature wins out for over-all sculpting versatility. I’m kind of surprised that I can't find anything better, or more accurate, than my own fingers. One thing, though - closely cropped fingernails are a must!

Also of necessity, especially for highly detailed work:

Close-up visual aids. I have a piece of head gear, where the magnifying lenses flip down. This is okay, but is hot and rather uncomfortable. Also, you get a BAD case of hat-head!

A jewelers light/magnifying glass is ideal, but a bit of an investment. When you’re ready for close in work, you simply swing this in front of your face. You are zoomed in quite a bit, so it helps to view your project normally, just to keep scale and proportion accurate.

 

 
Working Conditions
 

This, of course, is personal, but some sort of organization makes life much easier.

First, find an area dedicated to your hobby. It’s important to be able to leave things as is for days on end, and not be constantly reminded of the project. Good lighting is important, as is a fairly large and flat working surface. I put white Bristol board on my desk, and tape down a long stretch of wax paper. I even mix my paint on one end. When I’m done, I simply replace the wax paper for the next project.

Clear storage containers are great for keeping similar colours of clay together, and for preventing blobs of it from scattering around your work area. You do NOT want little bits of this stuff ground into the carpet, trust me.

I find that music is a must, since I spend a lot of time working away on my projects, and this keeps my energy level up.

 

 
Individual Projects
 
The making of "Rachel Rocks"
Illustrated "Gods of the Sea"